Accessing closed sections of Simatai

[Bryan]

The Simatai Great Wall is famous not only for its challenge and danger, but also for its fantastic views. Many people wish to try to reach the summit at tower number 18, the famous Wang Jing tower, or tower for viewing the capital. But the Wall is closed to the public beyond tower 14, and there are guards present to prohibit you from passing.

In 2004, I was prohibited from proceeding beyond tower 14, and time did not allow me to explore other options. At least, not in 2004. But during the following year I did some research, which was furthered by talking with local villagers once I arrived at Simatai in 2005 with the goal of reaching Tower 18.

I found that there are actually three viable options for accessing the closed section of the Wall, and of course I tried them all. Please read the following posts for details.

Please note that Simatai is dangerous and climbing the Great Wall here should be done at your own risk.

[Bryan]

The first option for reaching Wang Jing tower is to arrive at tower 14 early enough in the morning. Contrary to advertised warnings, the guards are not present at the end point very early. I would guess they do not arrive until the cable car begins operation, but I am not sure. By arriving at around 7 AM I was completely alone.

[Bryan]

The second option is to walk along a path from the upper cable car station towards the Heavenly Ladder. Behind the cable car station is a small restaurant, and if you walk to the right side of this restaurant and behind, you will find the path leading towards the left and towards the Heavenly Ladder. Note that in places this path passes close by areas of steep dropoff, so be very careful. The path is very overgrown and not easy to follow. It’s nice to have a GPS receiver with you, so if you lose the path, you can retrace your steps until you find it again. At the end of the path and shortly before you reach the base of the Heavenly Ladder, you must climb some large rock faces and again you should be very careful.

Looking down at the cable car station from near tower 8.


View from behind upper cable car station




The path is overgrown, steeply up and down, and not easy to follow.

I also tried walking from the lower cable car station, and while it was interesting, it became apparent after about two hours that this was not the right way to reach the Great Wall. The terrain is very difficult and the distance is much further than I had imagined.

[Bryan]

The third option is to approach from Tangjiazhai (唐家寨 – Táng jiā zhài) via Bagezhuang (巴各庄 – Bā gè zhuāng) village. This village is about a 20-minute drive from Simatai and is located near Wangjinglou at 40°38'49"N 117°18'26"E. You can easily find a driver to take you from the Simatai parking lot. Find someone who has been there before. Much of the distance is on unpaved roads. This is by far the safest way to reach Wangjinglou if you aren’t trying to climb the Heavenly Ladder or Sky Bridge or to reach the Fairy Tower (tower 17)

The path through the village towards the mountain.










Here is the path to the top


Ju Xian tower from near the top of the path


Ju Xian tower


Wang Jing tower




It's a steep, slippery climb up from Ju Xian tower to Wang Jing tower.


I have finally reached Wangjinglou!


View from Wang Jing tower left side towards Fairy Tower


Sky Bridge and Fairy Maid tower, Jinshanling in the distance


Note exit from Ju Xian tower towards Wang Jing tower is very precarious.

If you want to proceed from Wangjinglou to the Fairy Tower, but you don’t like the idea of crossing the Sky Bridge (and who could blame you?), you will find a path off to the right, on the north side of the Sky Bridge but lower down. This is a much safer alternative.

[Lingyu]

A couple of years ago, I went to Wangjing tower of Simatai Great Wall. On the tower I found a stunning vista. I was higher than everything around me. I could see far far away. The blue sky,the ruined wall and the differently shaped bricks made me forget everything and my mind was blank. It was an experience that I will never forget.

[KyonoRocks]

Ack so you can't just ask the guards nicely to get past? Damn.. is it worth visiting Simatai if you can't get to the top? Or should I just visit Jinshanling and skip the hike to Simatai?

[Bryan]

Originally Posted by KyonoRocks

Ack so you can't just ask the guards nicely to get past? Damn.. is it worth visiting Simatai if you can't get to the top? Or should I just visit Jinshanling and skip the hike to Simatai?

I guess that depends on your priorities. Unless "summiting" at Simatai is important to you, you may enjoy visiting Jinshanling or hiking from there to Simatai more.

But if you really want to reach the top of Simatai, and you're OK with the danger (believe me, it's scary!), you should probably go for it. There are ways to avoid the guards and get to the top, as you probably read in the first post of this thread. I have also heard of the guards accepting bribes. Here is a quote from an e-mail I recently got from one of our members.

...

The next day, I got to Simatai in the morning and hiked all the way up.

It was cool, but in reality it is not that far up once you take the cable car up. A lot of hiking up, but not like I felt at Jin Shanling.

Getting to the top was anti-climactic. No so much to see as far as Simatai with the sections closed. I really feel Jian Shanling was the cooler experience in terms of the wall. When I go back, I will do more hiking there.

When I got to the top of Simatai, I was alone. I was more seasoned the 2nd day and vehemenently refused a local from coming with me. Man, they are clingy!

I saw the sign that says do not enter or it will be a 200 fine. I hung around contemplating going over or not. I called my wife to let her know about the experience. This is another interesting side note here.

I had full cell service on my international blackberry on the wall. It was crazy. In the US, you could never be in the middle of nowhere climbing mountains and have this good coverage.

Anyway, as I was longing out at the top, I heard a faint crackle in the closed section, sounded exactly like a walkie talkie. A little later, someone came out and back to where I was at. I had a feeling the whole thing was a set up. They wanted me to go over to fine me.....

After about 10 minutes or so, the guy approached me and said for 100, he will take me into the closed section. Okay, now they were dangling the carrot.

I just spoke with my wife, I have 2 small kids at home. What was I to do?
I thought about it and said I would go, but would turn back as soon as I felt uncomfortable. Anyway, 100 is nothing, what $15 or so.

I paid the guard and off I went, with my digital SLR around my neck and a backpack. About 10 meters in, there was a "real" guard and the man gave the 100 to him and we continued. He asked me if I wanted to leave my backpack, but I was nervous and said no (this was a mistake). A little later, he asked if I wanted him to hold it and I said no (again a mistake).

Well, we went and I made it to watchtower 13 (I believe) and through.

It was really cool and was pretty dangerous, walking over areas that were straight down with little handrails. But, nothing I felt so uncomfortable yet.

Then, we hit a section that was narrow and the walkway went to nothing, where you had to step over the ravine. Up ahead I saw a very nice paved walkway that went down to the other side and tower 14, but where I was at was scary.

I pulled back a few feet, sat down and held the wall tight thinking about what I should do. I took some picture, the closest pictures I got of the heavenly ladder. I looked down (something you shouldn't do) and was getting vertigo. I also saw that the overhang "bridge" I was sitting on was a freaking archway. I saw the mountain below me had a hole and the area I was sitting on was just the top of the arch. This really freaked me out.

At that moment I decided not to go further (something I regret, but feel it was the right decision). Took a bunch more pictures, took it all in and then went back.

I now wished I had gotten through there and made it to tower 14, the base of the ladder. The man had said he would take me there for the 100.

Now that I look back on your visual map, you have a marker for "Scary" between towers 13 and 14. I think this is the spot where I went back.

...

Here is the photo he sent me:

I hope you'll let us know what you decide to do and share your stories and photos when you return. Just make sure to return safely!

[KyonoRocks]

Originally Posted by greatwallforum

I guess that depends on your priorities. Unless "summiting" at Simatai is important to you, you may enjoy visiting Jinshanling or hiking from there to Simatai more.

Hmm I'm not sure. When I went to Mutianya I was one of the 10 of our 100 strong group who made it to the end (The sign that says you can go no further.. couldn't see any towers beyond this so I assumed it was the very end) and it felt really good... although I guess the view wasn't that great especially as previous towers had been higher in altitude (as you probably know, the pain of hiking Mutianya isn't reaching a summit at the end, it's going up then down, then up then down...).

From the pictures it seems this dangerous section is truly and amazing sight, but if you DON'T go to the end... is Simatai that much to behold? Without the climax is it really worth it?

I'm never sure about offering bribes and such in a foreign country, especially China. I think we'll do the hike and decide then and there whether we pay a guy 100rmb or so for the extra way. I'd like to think we'd do it but I've got no experience of such adventure so I might wuss out

[Bryan]

My personal opinion . . . Jinshanling is more interesting and more safe as well as being officially open. The views there are fantastic. You won't regret going there and you won't be disappointed.

[Kim]

I found Simatai to be a bit disappointing after being to many other places, but I didn't enter the forbidden area either - however I see no sense in risking my life to see this place.